In late May, I was tasked with a two week assignment to provide technical assistance to some implementing partners on the Zambia team with conducting a public health response for their recent HIV infection surveillance program. The first week was going to be in Livingstone in the south of the country, while the second week was to be held in Ndola in the northern region. I had never been to Zambia before, even though it is the neighboring country to Malawi, but I was excited for this new opportunity to learn more about the context of HIV there. While the two countries certainly have their differences, they are similar in many ways. For example, both countries are landlocked with similar populations of nearly 20 million. Both countries are also predominantly agrarian, relying on agriculture as a key economic sector. Their food is also very similar with an emphasis on maize, fish, groundnuts, and various greens. Historically, Zambia and Malawi and Zimbabwe were all part of the Federation of Rhodesia and Nyasaland, also known as the Central African Federation. The federation was established in 1953 by the British colonial authorities as a means of consolidating their control over the region, but 10 years later the federation dissolved and both Zambia and Malawi gained independence in 1964 (Zimbabwe was delayed until 1980). Both Malawi and Zambia are part of the Bantu language family, which is one of the largest language families in Africa. The Chewa language, also known as Nyanja is widely spoken in both countries.
While the journey to Livingstone was delayed by 36 hours due to plane mechanical issues in Nairobi, I eventually managed to reach there to attend the meetings with the team late in the afternoon. This was my first solo work trip as we had already conducted several responses in Malawi in the past and now Zambia was rolling out theirs. The initial response was to be held over three days in which we would first meet with the provincial and district health leadership as well as representatives from USAID, the Ministry of Health, local partners, and providers and staff from the health facilities. The second day consisted of going out in the field to visit the facilities and meet with staff to determine possible drivers of HIV transmission and issues the community was facing. The final day involved reconvening with everyone to discuss the issues discovered and come up with health recommendations to implement and monitor in order to hopefully interrupt transmission and reduce the number of recent infections. According to the latest available data from 2020, the estimated prevalence of HIV in Zambia is just over 11%. The prevalence varies across different regions and population groups in the country, with the epidemic being more concentrated in urban areas and the highest prevalence typically found among key populations such as sex workers, men who have sex with men, and people who inject drugs.
Last meeting in Livingstone
It just so happened to be that Livingstone is the gateway to one of the world's most awe-inspiring natural wonders- the mighty Victoria Falls. It had always been a place I wanted to visit, and with the free weekend in between trips, my chance had come. Several years back, I had decided to fall from the skies and give skydiving a try. I had loved roller coasters and cliff jumping, so why not try the next best thing. It was an absolutely exhilarating experience, but I couldn't stop just there. It is widely known that bungee jumping off the bridge in front of Victoria Falls is among the best places to do it. Of course, that was the first thing I signed up for. Since I only had one day to live it up and I was at the Zambezi River already, the night before I decided to also sign up for white water rafting. While the river certainly had its share of crocodiles and hippos, we were told that they wouldn't dare go into the rapid waters that we paddled through.
The journey began Saturday morning with a drive to the river to meet with the team that would be accompanying me for the ride. There were eight of us, plus the guide on our raft and an additional guide in another mini raft to provide additional support if needed. For the best experience, it's recommended to go during the dry season when the water levels are low, but unfortunately it was the high season and we were limited in terms of where on the river we could go. The river, flowing through the border of Zambia and Zimbabwe, is famous for its breathtaking beauty and the sheer force of its rapids. As we set on the adventure, we encountered a variety of rapids, ranging from class III to class IV, offering an exhilarating mix of adrenaline-pumping drops, powerful waves, and technical maneuvers. It was challenging at times, but also had its serene moments. The guide had over 30 years experience on the river and also took time to share his wealth of knowledge about the river's geology, history, and wildlife, making the experience not only thrilling but also educational. Given the strong rapids that the river is known for, people often ask the question of how many times did your raft topple over, not whether or not it did at all. Given the strong team we had on board, we managed to keep the boat afloat at all times without anyone falling out. While there certainly was an adrenaline rush from the ride, the views were the next best thing. As we maneuvered through the gorges, we were surrounded by towering cliffs, lush vegetation, and abundant wildlife.
The crew
Snack break with the rafting guide
Following the activity, I then had to hurry on over to the Victoria Falls Bridge in front of the falls where I was about to embark on my next expedition. Leading up to the jump, I had no fear and was full of excitement and anticipation for the moment. After signing the waiver form as well as having my vitals checked, I made my way onto the bridge for the first time and peaked over the ledge. It was absolutely stunning seeing the falls in the backdrop with the sun slowly making its way down. I didn't think much of the jump until it was finally my turn to get hooked up. After getting set up, they then directed me to place my feet halfway off the edge of the platform but not to jump just yet. I glanced down, and for the first time felt a instant rush of anxiety. My mind went blank and the anticipation disappeared. 3...2...1... I jumped. They told me to jump out as far as I could, but everything was a blur in the moment and I just jumped straight down. It was then that I felt my heart racing and my stomach sink as my face dropped 111 meters (364 feet) towards the surface of the river. Within five seconds, I was slung back up right before it felt like I was about to submerge into the water. I thankfully missed hitting the bridge on the rebound, but feeling the mist from the falls and seeing the gorge upside down was one of the most surreal experiences I've had. Upon returning back up to the top of the bridge, my adrenaline was pumping and I knew this wouldn't be the last time I'd do something like this. The feeling of free falling into an abyss is a remarkable experience, however it can be challenging to overcome the initial fear. In fact, there were several people who attempted multiple times to jump, but ultimately backed out.
The view from above the bridge
VC: E. Maniam
With only a little time left before sunset, I quickly scurried over to the entrance of the falls. While the high water levels were not ideal for rafting, they certainly were for the falls. The waterfall was at its fullest and it was a spectacular sight witnessing the massive amounts of water cascading down. At 1,708 meters (5,604 ft) in width and a height of 108 meters (354 ft), Victoria Falls is the largest waterfall in the world. The original name of Victoria Falls is "Mosi-oa-Tunya", which means "The Smoke That Thunders" in the Lozi or Kololo language. It was given this name by the indigenous people of the area long before the falls were named after Queen Victoria by the Scottish explorer David Livingstone in 1855.
Upon arrival, I was immediately awestruck by it's sheer size and the thunderous sounds of the falling waters. I managed to grab hold of a poncho to cover my backpack as I walked across the bridge along the falls. I was immediately soaked by the heavy mist and spray, but it was magical feeling the water crash down on me. The nicest part was seeing the beautiful rainbow effect created by the spray as the sun began to set in the background. As I was heading out after soaking in the views from different vantage points, a staff member told me that I couldn't leave without checking out the views from the top of the waterfall. I followed him along with some others up this trail and we managed to stand right next to the top edge of the fall. This was the point where I fully understood why nothing beats natural beauty. It was like something out of a movie. When the water level is lower, there is a spot where you can even walk out in the water on top of the fall and lean over the edge (Devil's Pool).
Sunset views from the top of the falls
Rushing rapids from the top of the falls
An eventful day could not end without a proper meal that included some local delights. The guide from the rafting had recommended to check out this restaurant in town called Zest known for its game meats and tasty BBQ. I had been told on several occasions that kudu is some of the best tasting game meat in the world, so this was the perfect opportunity to give it a try. Kudu is a large type of antelope known for its lean and tender texture. It is low in fat and cholesterol and a good alternative to other red meats. It came prepared in a stew and was slightly gamey with a sweet flavor that reminded me of venison. It was actually quite delicious. But before that, I decided to order some mopane worms for the appetizer to snack on. Mopane worms are essentially caterpillars and have served as a popular food in Southern Africa for centuries because of their health benefits, taste, cultural significance, and sustainability. They are a great source of protein and are rich in iron, calcium, zinc, and fiber content. They came lightly fried with grilled onions and spices and had a nutty and earthy taste to them with a hint of a tangy bitterness. With a cold glass of beer, they served as a solid complement.
Stewed Kudu meat with jollof rice and salad
Mopane caterpillar worms with a cold local lager beer
The following week, I flew to Ndola in the Copperbelt region of the north and then ended the trip to conduct a debrief at the CDC Zambia office in Lusaka. It was not until arriving in Lusaka that I fully noticed the difference in the level of advanced infrastructure as compared to Malawi. It was a bustling city of contrasts with modern high-rises alongside traditional markets and vibrant street scenes. I certainly wish I had more time to explore Lusaka, but I will be back, with the new friends and relationships built while there. The trip to Zambia was an unforgettable experience combining lessons learned, thrilling adventures, and cultural immersion. The combination of natural wonders, vibrant cities, and warm hospitality make Zambia a place worth visiting.
Managed to find a memory of home in Lusaka