On August 14th, 2023, the conclusion of my fellowship in Malawi marked a bittersweet moment, as I bid farewell to the place I had called home for the past 1.5 years. This departure was full of memories that would last a lifetime, yet an exhilarating adventure awaited. Ever since my arrival on the African continent, I had desired to conquer the tallest peak in Africa, Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania. After months of planning, I succeeded in persuading a couple of friends to accompany me on this challenging ascent.
The first documented successful ascent of Mount Kilimanjaro by a European is attributed to Hans Meyer, a German geologist, who successfully reached the summit in 1889 after multiple attempts. It’s important to note that this is the first 'documented' successful climb. It’s very possible local Tanzanians may have reached the top well before Meyer, similar to how David Livingstone was the first 'documented' European to discover Victoria Falls in Zambia/Zimbabwe. Upon reaching the summit, Meyer placed a German flag to mark his achievement. He also collected a few rocks from the mountain as a symbol of his conquest. These rocks were intended as a gift for Emperor Wilhelm II of Germany. In a symbolic gesture, Meyer declared that he had raised the German flag on the highest point in the German Empire, signifying Kilimanjaro as a pinnacle of imperial achievement.
My journey commenced as I landed in Nairobi, Kenya and from there, I embarked on a bus ride south across the border to Moshi, Tanzania. The choice of August was strategic, for this is when the mountain offered dry, clear skies, reducing the risk of encountering slippery terrain and muddy trails. While the weather remained pleasantly mild at the mountain's base, temperatures plummeted into the single digits (°C) as nightfall set in the higher altitudes.
Our journey was set to span eight days, a demanding trek to the summit and back. Although we could have theoretically completed the trek in fewer days, we chose the extended duration to enhance our chances of reaching the summit successfully and to assist with acclimatization. In the weeks leading up to our expedition, my concerns about insufficient training—comprising of a few weekly sessions of inclined treadmill runs—had loomed large. To my surprise, this modest preparation turned out to be sufficient enough. The ascent of Kilimanjaro is not technically demanding, and with a reasonable level of fitness, one can manage. However, it's dealing with acclimatization and the heightened risk of altitude sickness that can get to people. Each person's body responds differently to high altitude, making it a difficult aspect to train for. There are several routes you can choose, which vary on factors such as length of time, difficulty, scenery, crowds, and acclimatization. We opted for the Lemosho Route as it worked best for our schedules and provided great scenery of the mountain, valleys, and forests. The Lemosho route is roughly 70 kilometers (42 miles) from start to finish, and the total elevation from entry gate to summit is 3,645 meters (11,958 feet).
The primary strategy we utilized for stable acclimatization was to 'climb high and sleep low'. This simply meant climbing to a new higher altitude during the day and then dropping back down in altitude to sleep at night, which helped adjust to the thinner air.
Route options
While there exists an extensive inventory of gear and equipment deemed essential for the trek, a portion of these items may be considered optional. Nevertheless, it is prudent to err on the side of caution and ensure you are adequately equipped, particularly considering the challenging conditions one might encounter at the summit. As I was arriving from Malawi, I found myself lacking much of the recommended equipment, but fortunately, I was able to rent most of it on-site for a reasonable fare. For instance, I had brought along a -10°C (14°F) sleeping bag, but the suggestion was to rent a -30°C (-22°F) sleeping bag specifically designed for extreme cold weather, capable of providing warmth in temperatures as frigid as -30°C (-22°F) due to its substantial insulation. I ultimately decided to stick with my -10°C (14°F) sleeping bag and compensate by layering up while I slept. Surprisingly, this arrangement worked well for me, underscoring that many choices came down to personal preference.
Rainforest, Day 1
On day one, we started at an elevation of 2,080 meters (6,825 feet) and hiked seven kilometers through lush rainforest in warm temperatures to set up camp at Mti Mkubwa Camp (2,774 meters or 9,100 feet). During our journey, wildlife sightings were relatively scarce, with the exception of the graceful black and white colobus monkeys that swung from tree to tree. Nevertheless, we remained committed to savoring every moment to the fullest, immersing ourselves in the evolving landscapes that each day presented.
The three of us at the Lemosho Gate entrance ready to begin the trek
Colobus monkey sighting
Warm, green rainforest
The camp setup was executed with remarkable precision. Our support crew comprised of approximately 10 to 12 porters, each bearing the immense burden of transporting all the necessary equipment up the mountain. It was truly an awe-inspiring feat, considering the substantial weight they carried on their backs. A single porter might be lugging up to 20 kilograms (44 pounds) of equipment, and potentially some additional personal gear, a strenuous load that could unfortunately lead to posture issues and chronic back pain over time. In a country where securing stable employment is a formidable challenge, even with a college degree, being a porter in the tourism industry is a highly coveted job, offering compensation that exceeds double the minimum wage. There have been discussions about eliminating porter positions and instead delivering supplies and accommodations via helicopters, but this would have significant ramifications, jeopardizing livelihoods that are crucial for survival.
Porter bringing equipment up the mountain
Initially, I was surprised by the sizable mandatory tip allocated for the porters, as indicated in the package price. However, the reason behind this became apparent after the first day of our trek. They were extremely accommodating to meet our needs and any special requests we had. The porters would consistently outpace us to set up our tents, dining and cooking facilities, portable toilet amenities, and water sources for drinking and washing. Personally, I found the portable toilet facilities to be both efficient and hygienic and a very convenient arrangement.
Campground
Portable toilet
Upon arriving at the campsite, our routine involved unloading our backpacks into our tents, cleaning the dirt from our shoes and clothes, and enjoying a cup of hot tea to remain warm. We'd take in the views of the gorgeous sunsets in the horizon before heading into the dining tents to have our hot meals. The culinary delights were prepared by an exceptionally skilled chef, renowned for his exquisite soups, earning him the title of 'soup king.' Our menu featured homemade pizzas, succulent roasted chicken, copious servings of steamed vegetables, a variety of fruits, and much more. Up until the summit day, we adhered to a relatively conservative, Westernized diet to minimize risks. However, after our triumphant ascent, we celebrated with a more localized culinary experience, savoring dishes such as rice pilau and stewed meats and veggies.
The 'Soup King' at work
Warming up with some hot meals in the dining tent
Shira Camp 2, Day 2
On the second day, we traversed through an enchanting landscape marked by small shrubs and open terrain. The heathland surroundings, inhabited by unique flora, provided a glimpse of the distinct beauty. Despite encountering clouds, there's generally good visibility. This was one of the longest hikes at 17 kilometers (10.6 miles) with a stop at Shira camp 1 for lunch and then onward at a flatter stretch leading to Shira 2 Camp at approximately 3,840 meters (12,598 feet). The journey unveiled Kilimanjaro's changing ecosystems and served as a transitional day, allowing us to adapt to the increasing altitude.
Baranco Camp, Day 3
On the third day of the trek, we covered 10 kilometers (6.2 miles) with a seven kilometer ascent followed by a three kilometer descent. The journey led through an arid desert landscape adorned with Kilimanjaro cacti and included the sight of a picturesque waterfall. Lunch was enjoyed at the Lava Tower, perched at an altitude of 4,600 meters (15,092 feet), before descending to the Baranco Camp at 3,900 meters (12,795 feet). Here, the panoramic views were stunning coupled with a gorgeous backdrop of the sunset.
Kilimanjaro cacti
Panoramic views from the desert
Sunset view
Karanga Camp, Day 4
On the fourth day, the hike covered a four kilometer (2.5 mile) distance to reach the Karanga Camp at an altitude of 3,995 meters (13,106 feet). The day's challenge began with the "Breakfast Wall," a steep incline that required hikers to use all fours to ascend for about two hours. It was a fun added obstacle that incorporated maneuvering through narrow crevices and rocky terrain. After conquering the ascent, the trek then descended to the Karanga Camp, where we settled for the evening.
Karanga Camp (part 2), Day 5
On the fifth day, we remained at the Karanga Camp, but embarked on an acclimatization hike up to an altitude of 4,400 meters (14,436 feet) before returning to camp to sleep for the night.
Evenings at the camp were marked by lively conversations and shared stories before our guides conducted daily health check-ups, including vital sign assessments and a series of questions to monitor potential symptoms of altitude sickness. We also gathered around in the porters' tent to engage in fellowship and play a thrilling card game that got everyone involved called, 'Last Card'. After dinner, we also played a pattern recognition game called, 'Set', with our guides. Both were fun and mentally compelling. However, we made sure to get to bed quite early as sleep would be critical for each day of hiking.
Playing Set in the porters' tent
For the most part, the higher up we went, the colder and windier it got, which made it uncomfortable at times, especially when needing to use the bathroom at night or use the water basin to do a body wash in the early mornings with a rag. An observation that strongly resonated with me was the need for our society to progress beyond the use of zippers. They tend to jam easily, and it's a major annoyance when you're freezing and just want to get inside your tent or use the toilet quickly.
Basecamp, Day 6
On day six, we ascended further to the Barafu basecamp, at an altitude of 4,673 meters (15,330 feet). Arriving in the early afternoon, we initially contemplated a small hike up to Kosovo camp, standing at 4,900 meters (16,076 feet). Yet, wisdom prevailed, and we collectively decided it would be better to rest up. A pre-dawn start awaited us, requiring us to preserve our strength for the formidable ascent to the summit at Uhuru Peak.
Summit day, Day 7
Instead of waking up at 12 AM and beginning the hike up in the bitter cold and dark, we opted to begin climbing at about 4:30 AM. This concession meant missing the sunrise at the peak, though we were treated to a breathtaking view as we ascended past Kosovo camp. Dressed in every piece of gear we could muster to combat the increasing winds at higher altitudes, we anticipated an increase in temperature with the sunrise. However, that didn't really end up holding true. We were advised to pack light and take our time, adhering to the Swahili principle of "pole pole" or "slowly slowly."
Sunrise along the ascent
Every step felt burdensome in the thin air, demanding deep, deliberate breaths to maintain our pace. Frequent breaks became essential, during which we quenched our thirst from camelbacks and replenished our energy with snacks. It was an intense feeling of misery but fascination with how surreal the experience was. As much of a physical battle as it was, summit day was much more a mental hurdle to overcome. Personally, I found inspiration in the fact that individuals in their 70s and 80s, and others in less-than-ideal physical condition, had triumphed in reaching the summit. If they could do it, so could I.
Finally, we conquered the most arduous segment of the ascent, reaching Stella Point at 5,756 meters (18,885 feet), a mere 200 meters (656 feet) from the ultimate summit. Though I sensed the quivering of my legs upon arrival, I was resolute in my determination not to be among those who give up at this point. As easy as it sounds to get the energy and motivation to continue to the peak, there have been countless stories of people calling it quits here before ascending up the final 139 meters (456 feet). However, that day, I wasn't going to be one of those people.
Stella Point
We carried on to the final destination after a break and went around one corner thinking we were there only to realize there were still another 25 minutes left of trekking. One corner after another, I'd start to lose my patience, and then finally, the moment arrived where I could see the summit flag of Tanzania in the distance surrounded by clouds and nothing else above it. It was a surreal experience. Reaching the summit of Africa, standing at 5,895 meters (19,340 feet) above sea level, the tallest free-standing mountain in the world, required considerable time and effort. We had done it! As with every major milestone, it wouldn't have been a proper celebration without opening a bag of Sour Patch Kids candy as a sweet reward.
Enjoying my favorite candy atop the summit
However, my fingers were nearly frozen, making the enjoyment of this treat a gradual pleasure. Due to the extreme frigid temperatures and high winds, we only stayed at the peak for about 15 minutes before we decided to head down. Everything happened so fast that I didn't even get to really appreciate the accomplishment in the moment until it hit me as we descended down the mountain. Mount Kilimanjaro is technically a dormant volcano that has three distinct volcanic cones (Kibo at the top, Mawenzi, and Shira which eroded). The last eruption was over 200,000 years ago, which formed the round crater at the top of the mountain. You can also witness a long glacier, however over 80% of the ice on the top of the mountain has sadly melted away since the early 20th century.
The melting glacier
The Descent and Day 8
The final day and a half was allotted to the descent down from the peak back to the entrance of the park where the van was waiting for us to be picked up. While the top was beautiful, we couldn't wait to get back down to the warmth, rest our bodies, and enjoy a nice long shower for the first time in over a week. It was much quicker getting down than it was getting up. I figured I'd have no energy to get back down, but a jolt of energy revitalized me from the marvel of summiting, which helped propel me down the mountain amidst the ash, rocks, and dirt. It was important to not go too fast so as to avoid potentially twisting an ankle or straining our knees. This is where the walking sticks could come in handy.
Descending down the mountain
It was crazy to think that after seven days we had reached the top and by midday on the eighth and final day, our marathon of a trek would be coming to a conclusion. As we returned back to the van to end our journey, I began to reflect on some key elements I learned from this experience. For one, while we definitely were very privileged with the arrangement we had prepared for us, living with basic amenities, disconnected from the outside world, made me appreciate the simplicity of life and highlight the difference between wants and needs. It's unfortunate though because as of recent, the government of Tanzania has installed internet connectivity along most of the mountain for the benefit of the tourists, so they can post to their social media. While 30 minutes of free Wi-Fi are provided at Barafu basecamp, it was tempting to connect, but I made sure to resist the temptation until I returned back to the hotel.
While I was super fortunate not to have experienced any symptoms of altitude sickness the whole journey, I definitely was tested to the maximum physically and emotionally, but I learned that mental grit and tenacity will ultimately take you to the finish line once physical exertion has crept in. The mountain creates its own weather that no one can accurately predict. You just have to be prepared to face adversity head on and adapt to the conditions that present themselves. With the combination of heavy breathing from high altitude, frigid temperatures, and exhaustion, sometimes we all need to seek discomfort in order to grow and realize we can set new thresholds that we never knew were previously possible.
Following the return back to the hotel, we held a little certificate of completion ceremony followed by some time to share some drinks with the whole crew together one last time before we bid farewell. While my friends set off for a Serengeti safari, I had one more night at the hotel, before catching the morning bus back to Nairobi. I proceeded to do the one thing I was missing all week, a hot shower to clear off all the dust and dirt that seeped into my skin. This cleanse was a welcome respite after enduring eight days without such simple comforts while ascending the mountain. It was such a nice refreshing moment.
Upon looking into the mirror, I couldn't help but notice the extensive peeling on my nose, a consequence of unshielded exposure to the sun. This oversight served as a valuable lesson, ensuring that I diligently apply sunscreen in the days that followed. I then got ready and ventured into town with the owner of the tour agency (Abe), who arranged the entire expedition for us. The two of us, along with a driver, celebrated our achievement with drinks and a sumptuous feast of nyama choma, which is an assortment of grilled goat, beef, and chicken meat on an open fire. As we chatted, he suggested I stay an extra day in Moshi to tour the town and see what it had to offer, as he guaranteed I wouldn't regret it. Despite my early bus departure scheduled for the next morning, he managed to rearrange it at no extra cost. I would've had an extra day to spend in Nairobi, but I figured this might be worth it.
Nyama Choma (roasted meats)
A Tour through Moshi
Moshi is a small town in northern Tanzania that serves as a gateway for many trekkers arriving from around the world in hopes to summit Mount Kilimanjaro. Oftentimes, tourists don't take the time to venture out and explore all that it has to offer. The next morning, slightly sore from the climb, I embarked on a day tour with a guide from the company, exploring Moshi's local markets filled with unique items like ugali (stiff maize porridge), raw tamarind, fresh watermelons, dried seafood, and more.
Open market in urban Moshi
Ugali (stiff maize porridge)
Raw tamarind
Whole watermelons
Dried shrimp
We also came across an herbal medicine specialist, who had a street cart containing a remedy for any ailment one might have.
Herbal medicine specialist
During our explorations, we encountered a skilled shoemaker who ingeniously crafted robust sandals and flip-flops from used car tires. These footwear items were reminiscent of those commonly worn by the Maasai warriors as they traverse the country by foot.
Shoemaker
A visit to the town's old train station and a tasty lunch followed with some passion fruit for dessert, and then I met another guide for an excursion to the serene countryside outside of town.
Only train station in Moshi
As we were met with palm trees and banana trees, it felt like we were entering a whole new world. Our journey commenced with a visit to the awe-inspiring Materuni Falls, the largest waterfall in the region. Here, we encountered pristine, albeit chilling waters sourced directly from the mighty Mount Kilimanjaro. The waterfall was nearly 150 meters (492 feet) tall and stunning. As we trekked toward the waterfall, a subtle ache in my feet served as a lingering reminder of the strenuous climb we had conquered on the mountain, and I knew it would stay with me for the next few days.
Materuni Waterfall
The region evoked a strong sense of nostalgia for me, reminiscent of Kerala, India, where my parents are originally from. Both locales are graced with with lush greenery, rolling hills, verdant landscapes, and beautiful plantations, offering an array of picturesque vistas.
Farmland in rural Moshi
After spending some time enjoying the views of the waterfall, we then proceeded to visit the coffee farm and witness firsthand how it is made. While the process to make it might not seem overly complicated, you really learn to appreciate just how much effort goes into sourcing the ingredients to put it all together. After grinding the coffee beans and brewing a fresh pot, I indulged in three cups, a testament to its delectable flavor, especially considering that I'm generally not a fan of coffee. I made sure to also purchase a bag to bring back home.
From raw bean to drinkable coffee
Filtering out the bad bits
Roasted coffee beans
Grinding up the coffee beans
Mixing the coffee powder with hot water
Before concluding our day, we made a final stop at a local pop-up bar. I was pleasantly surprised by the variety of such bars in the area. I ordered some homemade banana beer, reminiscent of a frothy, fermented kombucha, served in a brimming bath cup. Despite initial skepticism, I found it to be delightfully smooth and infused with banana essence. We settled into plastic chairs beside the local regulars who frequented the bar daily. Although a language barrier separated us, our guide managed to facilitate some translation, leading to shared laughter and unforgettable memories. As we savored the sunset and admired the rural farmlands, a profound sense of connection and peace enveloped us. In that moment, it felt as if I had found my true place. The combination of warm camaraderie, breathtaking landscapes, and the absence of worry or anxiety created a sense of home away from home.
Homemade banana beer
I was immensely grateful for extending my stay, and I wholeheartedly recommend that anyone visiting Moshi venture beyond the town's limits. Though I wished I could spend the night there, I had to return to town for a final dinner and to bid farewell to Abe. This journey marked the conclusion of my time in Africa, leaving me with a collection of unforgettable experiences and the promise of many more adventures that would continue to shape my perspective and approach to the world. As the late Anthony Bourdain once said, "You realize how much you don't know the more you travel the globe."
Abe and I as we bid farewell
The whole crew