Generally speaking, in most Commonwealth African countries, you can easily get by with just knowing English. Of course there are caveats to that, especially as you head out of the major cities. However, there is one country in particular where this doesn't necessarily hold true. In the United Republic of Tanzania, even in the largest city of Dar es Salaam, it can be a struggle getting around with just English alone. In fact, less than 10% of the population speaks English, while the national language of Swahili is spoken by over 90% of the country. While Swahili is the most widely African language spoken across the continent, it is primarily spoken in Kenya and Tanzania. The Tanzanian government decided to establish Swahili as it's national language instead of English to unify people from diverse ethnic and linguistic backgrounds. The standardized version is taught in schools and used in official communications, government, education, media, and various aspects of life.
As I arrived in Dar es Salaam a couple months ago for a recent HIV surveillance workshop, I was surprised by how hot and humid it was. As a bustling economic and trade hub nestled along the coastline of the vast Indian Ocean, Dar es Salaam is a vibrant fusion of modernity and tradition. They have multiple ride-share options to get around the city including Uber and Bolt, which are very affordable. The most popular options are the bajaji (tuk-tuk) or boda-boda (motor bike). When traffic is congested, as it usually is in Dar, these two options are most reliable to weave through the traffic and get you to your destination in good time. When the weekend hits, everyone makes their way to the beach to hang around, socialize, and relax among family and friends. With loads of food stalls and ice cream vendors lined up along the beach, the energy only livens up when the sun goes down.
Getting by on a boda-boda
A night at Coco Beach in Dar es Salaam
In either 1865 or 1866, Dar es Salaam was founded by the first sultan of Zanzibar, Majid bin Said. The literal translation of the city name from Arabic to English means 'abode of peace'. Tanzania is a result of the unification of Tanganyika (the mainland) and the Zanzibar islands. Tanganyika and Zanzibar united on April 26, 1964, forming the United Republic of Tanzania. Following the completion of the workshop, I decided to use the weekend to take a ferry ride to the semi-autonomous archipelago of Zanzibar. The ride got very bumpy at times with the rough waves, but nearly two hours later and 35km off the coast of Dar, I had arrived in the entry port of Stone Town.
Upon arrival at the ferry station in Stone Town, I was swarmed with taxi drivers trying to give me a ride. It's a captivating town that sucks you in right off the bat. As I walked the streets, it felt surreal experiencing the town's unique blend of history, culture, and architecture unfold before my eyes. I was immediately greeted by a maze of narrow, meandering alleyways lined with historic buildings adorned with intricately carved wooden doors that once stood as a symbol of social status and identity. Their designs are unique and like no other doors you'd find anywhere else in the world. I didn't have much time to spend in Stone Town however, as I had to rush to catch a dala dala (shared minibus) to Nungwi at the northern tip of the island, where I had a room booked for the evening. The bus was packed with locals and provided a glimpse of how people live and move around the island. At just $1.50 for a 1.5 hour ride, I couldn't complain about the tight squeeze.
Stone Town style door
Nungwi was a nice place to visit with white sandy beaches and blue waters. However, while it was picturesque in ways, it didn't quite match what I had envisioned based on pictures I had seen and what others had told me. It was a very touristy spot on the island that diluted the authenticity of the traditional fishing village ambience and cultural immersion experience I was seeking. And while the beaches and waters were nice, I guess I was expecting more. However, I couldn't complain because there were certainly affordable lodging options available and having fresh caught lobster for $12 was a steal. The best part of Nungwi was definitely taking a boat out to Mnemba Atoll, which is famous for its vibrant coral reefs and diverse marine life. I managed to snorkel in the deep waters, but unfortunately had a difficult time seeing the reefs as many were damaged from over boating. However, I did spot many colorful fish, turtles, jellyfish, and even a couple dolphins, which made it totally worth it. If you are a person who likes relaxing along the beach, then Nungwi and the areas outside of Stone Town are for you. However, I was excited to return to Stone Town for my last two days to wander the streets.
Succulent lobster in Nungwi
Crystal clear blue waters off of Stone Town
In ways Stone Town reminded me a bit of Marrakesh, Morocco with its winding and narrow alleys and open markets. It has a rich history that includes significance as a spice and slave trading center between East Africa and the rest of the world. The spice market is a vibrant and aromatic place where visitors can immerse themselves in the scents and flavors of various spices. Zanzibar served as a crucial hub for the spice trade during the 19th century. The island's fertile soil and tropical climate were ideal for cultivating a wide variety of spices, including cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, vanilla, and black pepper, among others. In fact, in the early 20th century, Zanzibar used to produce 90% of the world's cloves. Additionally, the slave market in Stone Town stands as a somber reminder of Zanzibar's dark history involving East African slave trade. During the 19th century, Zanzibar played a significant role as a center for the capture, transport, and sale of slaves from mainland Southern and Eastern Africa to the Middle East.
Street Alley in Stone Town
Spice market in Stone Town
A quick trip to the outskirts of town, you'll find a forest range of spice farms that bring you ultimate serenity and a break from the noise pollution in town. I managed to squeeze in a trip to Big Body spice farm, which was recommended by the hotel staff. It is a large farm managed by a group of local farmers and they provided a lovely one hour private tour that only charged tips. I had arrived a bit late in the afternoon, but managed to hear about how the spices are used for cooking and traditional medicines. The guide shared fascinating stories and folklore associated with each spice, adding cultural and historical depth to the tour. In addition to the spices, I even got to try many different hand-picked fruits from starfruit to pineapples to jackfruit and more during the course of the tour. However, the best part was getting to experience a home-cooked meal by the guide's wife using fresh-picked vegetables and spices from the farm. The meal consisted of some local free-range chicken, pilau rice (cooked with coconut milk, vegetables, cardamom pods, cinnamon sticks, and cloves), some greens, masala potatoes, and coconut gravy. It was especially delicious knowing the source of the food.
Climbing for coconuts
Wearing my new palm leaf tie
Home cooked meal
That evening, I went to check out the night market along the water called Forodhani. It was very lively with plenty of street food vendors offering local Zanzibari eats. Of course, the one item I had my eyes set on was the infamous Zanzibar pizza. It is a unique amalgam of flavors and textures that are pan fried to order. It consists of rolled out dough with a layer of minced beef on top, a sprinkle of finely diced onions, tomatoes and green peppers, a triangle of Laughing Cow processed cheese, a generous dollop of mayo, and a cracked egg on top. It wasn't terrible, but it certainly wasn't good. Another unique dish that I wasn't previously aware of but actually found to be quite flavorful was urujo. It is a sour mango-and-coconut broth brimming with crispy cassava chips, chunks of potato, fried chickpea flour, meat skewers, chili sauce, and a boiled egg.
Zanzibar pizza
Preparing urujo
Before departing the island, it was imperative for me to delve further into the life of the figure who embodied Zanzibar's presence on the global arena. With notable successes such as "Bohemian Rhapsody" and "We Will Rock You," Freddie Mercury, the star of Queen, captured my attention. It's worth noting that he hailed from Stone Town, where he was born and raised. Mercury was of Parsi descent, with his family originally from India. Mercury's impact on music and pop culture is immeasurable. He is remembered not only for his incredible vocal range and stage presence but also for challenging conventions and being unapologetically himself. On November 24, 1991, at the age of 45, Freddie passed away from AIDS. In fact, he publicly confirmed his diagnosis the day before he passed, which brought greater awareness to the disease at a time when there was still a great deal of stigma and misinformation surrounding it.
Freddie Mercury Museum in Stone Town