A little history never hurt nobody
Nestled at the southern stretch of the African continent, South Africa is a breathtaking nation and true embodiment of unity in diversity. From its majestic landscapes to its complex history, South Africa has an enchanting story to tell. A few months ago, my family and I (minus my middle sister and her husband) had a chance to experience our own story to tell about this magical place. To understand the fabric of this country, we must first understand a little about the history that shaped it into what it is today.
Back in 1884, Johannesburg was just a patchwork of farms when gold was discovered there. It swiftly transformed into a compilation of settlements that attracted people from all walks of life around the globe – all looking to make a fortune. It eventually developed in a colonial fashion – blacks and whites remained largely separate, with the white mine owners building mansions that sprawled into rich northern suburbs while black people were pushed to the south into townships (segregated public housing estates). Apartheid formalized the loose colonial arrangement in the 1940s, creating a black labor reserve named Soweto (South Western Townships) and prohibiting black people from the city. For 46 years, from the introduction of apartheid in 1948 until its fall in 1994, segregation formulated the fabric of South Africa.
With the end of apartheid and the tenure of Nelson Mandela, a new outlook was on the horizon as South Africa hoped to free itself from the divisions of the past. However, due to poor urban planning, a large influx of new residents to the cities, and a culmination of other factors, Johannesburg – like Cape Town, Durban, Port Elizabeth and other cities in South Africa – is still segregated to this day.
Johannesburg, South Africa
This was my family's first trip to the continent and we knew the 'Rainbow Nation', as coined by human rights activist, Desmond Tutu, would be a great destination to offer enriching experiences of blending cultures, landscapes, wildlife, and histories into a unique and vibrant tapestry. We landed in Johannesburg and stayed the night with our cousins in their beautiful home, where we indulged in a proper South African braai with an arrangement of grilled lamb, beef, chicken, and boerewors (combination of minced pork and beef sausage with spices).
Braai with grilled meats over open fire
Unlike any ordinary barbeque, a braai is cooked on an open fire and holds immense cultural and social importance as it brings people together for communal fellowship.
Enjoying the braai with family in Johannesburg
The next morning, we set off north for Sabi Sands private game reserve, which is connected adjacently to the famous Kruger National Park. The 5.5 hour drive was scenic with varying landscapes as we departed the urban heart of South Africa for the wild heart of the bush.
Sabi Sands- Kruger National Park, South Africa
Upon arrival at the park, we were greeted by the park rangers and then quickly got ready and ate before setting off for our first game drive. I had previously been to both Masai Mara National Reserve in Kenya and Liwonde National Park in Malawi for safaris, which were breathtaking, but unfortunately I was unable to see the rhino either time. Having been nicknamed Reno the Rhino growing up, it was my mission to finally spot a rhino during this expedition. Fortunately for us, we managed to witness the Big Five (lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard, and rhino) and so much more at Sabi Sands.
The white rhino at Sabi Sands Game Reserve
Leopard sighting
The only downside was that there wasn't a major body of water or boat ride to spot hippos and crocodiles, but driving at night was a thrilling experience not knowing what could be lurking just around the corner. However, nothing was as exhilarating as being able to do a walking safari by foot and witness some of the animals up close and personal. At times, it brought about fear, yet it carried an undeniable sense of adventure as we immersed ourselves in the wild, always mindful and respectful of the inherent dangers of the animals' natural habitat. We even got introduced to the Afrikaner sport of kudu dung-spitting. It is a playful competition where we picked up dried antelope dung from the grass, placed it on the edge of our mouths, and spat it out as far as we could. Believe it or not, there is an annual world championship competition held and the world record stands at 15.56 meters (51 feet).
Lion pride strolling along at night
Walking safari tour in Sabi Sands Game Reserve
We managed to observe leopards nearly every day while there, which is a pretty rare feat. In fact, the first night we arrived, we had to be escorted back to our tents by armed rangers due to a leopard feasting on a kill up in a tree just outside our camp. From the dining area of the lodge, nature’s theater unfolded before our eyes. As we would have our breakfast and lunch, we witnessed an extraordinary spectacle unravel. The lodge’s strategic design provided sweeping panoramic views, allowing us to witness the mesmerizing dance of wildlife in their natural habitat- elephants gently grazing, big cats on the prowl, or a herd of impala making their way across the open fields.
While the park rangers were extremely knowledgeable and informative, what impressed me most was their ability to track and spot animals. With an acute understanding of the animals’ behavior and the landscape of the environment, they skillfully interpreted fresh tracks and signs left behind to guide us on a pursuit through the wilderness. Their expertise allowed them to anticipate the movements of elusive fauna, revealing nature’s secrets and creating up-close encounters with the majestic inhabitants of the reserve. They even managed to go off-roading in the 4x4 Land Cruisers and take us within several feet from wild two-tusked African elephants, the largest land animals in the world. The elephants stole the show, but my dad's terrified expression as we approached them was the real headliner! Witnessing my family’s excitement and marvel during their first safari trip was a cherished joy and unforgettable adventure we shared together.
Up close and personal with a wild African elephant
Cape Town, South Africa
As we entered Cape Town for the second leg of the trip, it felt like nowhere I had been before. The stunning contrasts from where the surrounding mountain ranges meet the vast expanse of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans left me in complete awe. It has a rich history shaped by indigenous Khoisan peoples, Dutch colonial rule, British influence, and a diverse mix of cultures including Malay, African, Indian, and European. The city’s heritage is reflected in its colorful architecture, traditions, and vibrant communities.
Architecture in Cape Town
After multiple recommendations, we paid a visit to Gold Restaurant, which offers a unique dining experience known for showcasing 14 unique dishes from countries across the continent, accompanied by traditional music and interactive performances for all to enjoy. The food consisted of items such as Zanzibar fish and prawn coconut curry, Mozambiquan piri piri chicken wings, Kenya pilau rice, and plenty more delicious bites. It stood out as a highlight of the trip, offering a fresh perspective on the vast and unique culinary offerings of Africa.
Menu from Gold Restaurant in Cape Town
left to right: Kenya pilau rice, Zanzibar fish and prawn coconut curry, Tanzanian mchicha w'nazi, Moroccan venison and date tagine
Interactive performances at Gold Restaurant in Cape Town
The next day, we made our way to Hout Bay, where we took a rocky boat ride to see the seal colony laying and swimming along the rocks in the cold waters. Watching the seals was enjoyable, although the choppy waters and rain left a few of us feeling a bit queasy afterward.
Seal colony at Hout Bay
Later that afternoon, we managed to make our way down to Boulders Beach, where we witnessed the endangered African penguins, which can only be found in South Africa. They are known for their braying call, which resembles that of a donkey, earning them the nickname “jackass penguin”. It was adorable watching the black-and-white birds waddle around the beach with their short legs and upright posture.
Waddling penguin at Boulders Beach
During our visit to Cape Town, a trip to the renowned Robben Island was a must. Guided by an incredible host, a former inmate, we immersed ourselves in the island's history. The former prison, now a museum, unfolded its stories, complete with a glimpse into the unforgiving limestone quarry, where prisoners endured unjust working conditions. As the guide walked us through the haunting corridors and shared stories within the confines of the former prison, it became evident that he wasn't just narrating history - he was sharing fragments of his own life. He recounted the harsh conditions, the grueling labor, and the stifling isolation endured by political prisoners like himself and Nelson Mandela, who spent 18 years there during the Apartheid era.
Robben Island entrance
Jail Cell where Nelson Mandela was held for 18 years on Robben Island
With all the amazing food we were indulging in, we had to squeeze some exercise into the trip. What better way than to take a morning hike up the iconic Table Mountain, which offers one of the most magnificent panoramic vistas globally. At an altitude of 1,067 meters (3,501 feet), the vantage point offers spectacular views of the entire city. While the ascent was challenging, it was certainly achievable at a pace tailored to one's preference.
Hiking up Table Mountain in Cape Town
Soon after the trek, we went for a stroll through the Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden, situated on the slopes of the Eastern side of Table Mountain. Walking through the gardens unveils a diverse array of South Africa’s plant species, including unique Fynbos biome, medicinal gardens, and the beautiful protea flowers, which are the king of South African flora.
Protea flower at Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden
We concluded the trip by visiting the Beau Constantia vineyard. While I’m not a fan of wine myself, the vineyard graces a picturesque hilltop, boasting sweeping views of the lush Constantia valley. Nestled between majestic mountains, the landscape is made up of meticulously manicured vineyards, creating a mesmerizing backdrop for wine tasting.
Vineyard Views
Vineyard Views
As Americans, it's astonishing to realize the gaps in our knowledge of world history. Hence, when I travel to a new place, I approach it with a humble awareness of my limited understanding and a sincere eagerness to immerse myself in the profound history and rich culture that have sculpted that locale. South Africa taught me that every destination is a vibrant collection of stories, struggles, and triumphs, waiting to be explored. It's a reminder that genuine understanding stems from attentive listening, keen observation, and the embrace of diverse narratives with an open mind, setting aside preconceptions.
